Batik is especially unique due to the way certain wax blends
will “crackle” during handling, where fine cracks through the wax resist allow
lines of color on resisted areas.
Batik can be done with many types of dye & wax on cotton,
silk and other natural fabrics. Most weights will work, provided the wax
penetrates all the way through the fabric, but the finer weaves work best for
detail work. We used cotton, but feel free to use what you want. Silk is a
little more challenging to work with because of its unique wicking properties.
Batik masters employ a process of repeated waxing and tub dyeing
to achieve their final result. This method requires mastery of color mixing and
over dyeing; as each layer of dye is applied over the last, a new color is
produced. You don't have to be a batik master however to get some great fun
results.
Step 2: Pre-dye a few of your
fabrics in some different base colors, we did some in #3 Golden Yellow and #25
Turquoise
Step 3: Start melting your premixed Batik Wax in the little melting pot, or for bigger projects, in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set at about 220-230° **
Step 4: Stretch the fabric on a
Frame or Hoop, that will keep the fabric flat and horizontal or you can work on
some newsprint paper or a piece of cardboard if you don't have a frame. This is
often easier with larger pieces of fabric.
Step 5:
Start
applying your wax with tools of your choice...
A double
spouted Tjanting can give you fun effects or parallel lines. We used it to make
a wavy random design across this fabric.
You can use
Tjanting tools to create detail and fine line designs. We used the single spout
Tjanting to create this fun leaf pattern.
Remember:
When
applying wax, no matter what method you are using, regulate the temperature so
that it penetrates the fabric; not so cool that it just turns yellowish and
sits on top, and not so hot that all your lines spread out too much. The wax
should have a clear appearance, indicating it has penetrated to the other side.
Flip fabric over and apply wax anywhere it has not. Thin layers of very hot wax
will often allow some dye to stain the fabric under the wax, whereas a thicker
buildup will keep the wax off.
Step 6: Tub Dye the fabric, first using the lightest or brightest color that will be on the piece and will mix well with successive colors, for example yellow; then the next dye bath could be turquoise, which would actually mix with the yellow to dye the fabric green in all the un-waxed areas. Remember, after Soda Ash has been added to the dyebath, don't leave your waxed fabric in for more than 30 minutes more, as soda ash eats away the wax eventually, exposing areas to unwanted dye.
A double spouted Tjanting can give you fun effects or parallel lines. We used it to make a wavy random design across this fabric.
Brushes are
very easy to use for larger designs and are a great way to get kids in on the
fun. Make bold designs like circles, stripes and funky polkadots.
Step 7: Rinse and gently hand
wash the fabric in Synthrapol and allow to dry. Use lukewarm water so as not to
melt your wax!
Step 8: Repeats steps 2-6 above
for each color you plan for your batik, waxing areas after each dyebath that
you want to remain that most recent color, and re-waxing any areas that look
eroded from the Soda Ash. Tub dye your darkest areas last.
.
Step 9:Remove the Wax, using one of these methods:
Boil the wax out. Choose a pot to become your official wax pot that will comfortably hold your fabric and fill with water and a dash of Synthrapol, or other liquid detergent, to get the wax and any excess dye away from the fabric. Bring this to a simmer and add fabric. Stir the fabric around in the boiling water keeping it submerged. After a few minutes the wax will melt out of the fabric and float to the top. When the wax seems completely removed from the fabric, remove from heat and allow the water to cool. Be sure that the fabric sits on the bottom of the pan, avoiding the floating wax residue. You can weigh it down with rocks or something heavy. Allow to cool, then peel the hardened wax off the surface and remove the fabric
In Indonesia,
wax designs are repeatedly stamped onto the fabric with intricate metal stamps
made of copper called Tjaps or Caps (pronounced
"chops") but you don’t need anything so fancy to start. We stamped
this fabric with a squiggly potato masher (photo).
Iron the wax out. Sandwich your fabric between layers of absorbent paper and iron, to melt the wax out. This process often leaves a wax residue that looks like a grease spot and won’t come out, so it is not our favorite.
Step 10:Wash your fabric one last time in the washing machine with Synthrapol to remove any left over dye you couldn’t get out by hand. Dry your fabric.
Now you can get
to sewing, quilting, wrapping or just hang it up because it looks so
good you can’t bare to cut it up!
Pro-Tip:You can reuse this wax for your
next project as long as the water has dried out of it.
Pro-Tip: You can make fun stamps out of just about anything that will take the heat of the wax: the cut ends of some veggies like celery bundles and bell peppers can make fun prints. Look around and experiment.
**Note: BE CAREFUL! If you heat the wax over 240°, it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames! Work with hot wax in a well ventilated area (it gives off fumes), and never leave hot wax unattended!! In case of flaming emergency, DO NOT douse flaming wax with water! You can douse the flames with baking soda or a fire extinguisher. However, if you use the appliances recommended above, and exercise prudence and care, you should be able to control the temperature of the wax safely. We NEVER recommend using pots directly on the stove! Some folks are trying out our new Soy wax, which melts at a much lower temperature than the other waxes, reducing the chances of overheating. It is not as sturdy as the other waxes, especially on exposure to the soda ash, but folks are carefully working with its limitations because it is a renewable resource and totally non-toxic, including the fumes.
Join us at Taakra Academy and learn the art of Creativity, create your unique design while enhancing your entrepreneurial skills. Registrations is ongoing at Justice Oputa Foundation Building 12 Charly Boy 6th Ave. Gwarimpa Abuja. Phone 08033400798 or 07031002336
Step 3: Start melting your premixed Batik Wax in the little melting pot, or for bigger projects, in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set at about 220-230° **
**Note: BE CAREFUL! If you heat the wax over 240°, it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames! Work with hot wax in a well ventilated area (it gives off fumes), and never leave hot wax unattended!! In case of flaming emergency, DO NOT douse flaming wax with water! You can douse the flames with baking soda or a fire extinguisher. However, if you use the appliances recommended above, and exercise prudence and care, you should be able to control the temperature of the wax safely. We NEVER recommend using pots directly on the stove! Some folks are trying out our new Soy wax, which melts at a much lower temperature than the other waxes, reducing the chances of overheating. It is not as sturdy as the other waxes, especially on exposure to the soda ash, but folks are carefully working with its limitations because it is a renewable resource and totally non-toxic, including the fumes.
Join us at Taakra Academy and learn the art of Creativity, create your unique design while enhancing your entrepreneurial skills. Registrations is ongoing at Justice Oputa Foundation Building 12 Charly Boy 6th Ave. Gwarimpa Abuja. Phone 08033400798 or 07031002336
